Introducing the IWC Portugieser 2024 Collection at Watches and Wonders Geneva

by gregor

Last Updated on April 26, 2024 by gregor

Greetings, fellow horology enthusiasts! During my recent visit to the prestigious Watches and Wonders fair in Geneva, I had the distinct pleasure of exploring the IWC booth, where the spotlight was dazzlingly cast on the new 2024 collection of the iconic Portugieser series. Let me take you through the mesmerizing novelties that IWC Schaffhausen has skillfully crafted this year.

The Spotlight on Portugieser: A Legacy Reinvented

2024 marks a monumental year for IWC, with their focus intensively trained on the venerable Portugieser collection. This year, they introduced six distinct models, including an innovative secular calendar that beautifully blends tradition with modern horological advancements. Each model comes in up to four new dial colors, adding a vibrant spectrum to their already impressive lineup.

Key Highlights:

  • Six Different Models: The collection features a total of six distinct watch models.
  • Brand-New Secular Calendar: Among the new introductions is a never-before-seen secular calendar watch.
  • Up to Four New Dial Colors: Each model comes with up to four new dial color options.

Updates in the Portugieser Line:

  • Automatic 40: Innovations added to this model.
  • Automatic 42: The model sees new features.
  • Chronograph: Updates and improvements introduced.
  • Tourbillon: Enhanced with the latest advancements.
  • Perpetual Calendar: Received updates in the lineup.

Introduction of the Eternal Calendar:

  • Eternal Calendar: A new addition, described as an “eternal eternal calendar” or secular calendar in German, highlighting its unique and perpetual nature.

The New IWC Portugieser Collection 2024 Breakdown: Craftsmanship Meets Innovation

2024 is centered around the Portugieser at IWC. There are six different models, including a brand-new secular calendar in up to four new dial colors.

In the Portugieser line, IWC introduces innovations in the Automatic 40 and Automatic 42, in the Chronograph, the Tourbillon, and the Perpetual Calendar. Entirely new is the Eternal Calendar, which could be described in German as the “eternal eternal calendar” or secular calendar.

The new watches come partially in stainless steel, partially in red gold, and white gold. Characteristic are four color schemes for the dial: Obsidian (black), Dune (beige), Horizon Blue, and Silver. However, not every model is available with every dial color.

Let’s take a closer look at the New IWC Portugieser models:

The Portugieser Automatic 40 in White Gold with Blue Dial

Introduced in 2020, the Portugieser Automatic 40, with a diameter of 40.4 mm, is the smallest Portugieser, whose DNA has always been its exceptional size (the first Portugieser wristwatches were accordingly equipped with pocket watch movements). Although it was not a logical line extension at first glance, the Portugieser Automatic 40 was well received by the audience due to its successful proportions. With a small second at 6 o’clock and without a date, it is the base variant. Now the line is supplemented by a white gold model with a blue dial and matching calfskin strap, and a red gold watch with a black dial and black alligator strap. Both are powered by the IWC automatic caliber 82200: Its double pawl winding system Pellaton achieves a power reserve of 60 hours.

Key Highlights:

  • Introduced in 2020: The newest member of the Portugieser family.
  • Unique Size: At 40.4 mm in diameter, it is the smallest in the Portugieser series, reminiscent of its origins with pocket watch movements.
  • Design Appeal: Despite initial doubts about its fit within the line, it gained popularity due to its well-proportioned design.
  • Functional Simplicity: Features a small second at 6 o’clock; lacks a date display, emphasizing a clean, classic look.
  • New Variants for 2024:
  • White Gold Model: Comes with a blue dial and a matching calfskin strap.
  • Red Gold Model: Equipped with a black dial and a black alligator strap.
  • Mechanical Excellence: Powered by the IWC caliber 82200, featuring a Pellaton winding system that offers a robust 60-hour power reserve.

The 2024 Portugieser Automatic 42 is slimmer than its predecessor and does without the red sector at the power reserve indicator

The Portugieser Automatic 42 differs from the Automatic 40 in its larger case and the power reserve indicator at 3 o’clock. However, it also differs from the previous Automatic 42, especially in its case being one millimeter slimmer (13 instead of 14 mm) and the streamlined design of the auxiliary dials. The last day of the power reserve is no longer marked red, instead, the corresponding numbers from 1 to 7 are in – enlarged – fields. The outer rail minute track is retained, but it has been removed at the small second. The automatic movement 52011 is a slightly updated version of the well-known 52010.

Key Highlights:

  • Size and Function Differences:
    • Larger Case: Distinct from the Automatic 40, offering a more substantial presence.
    • Power Reserve Indicator: Prominently displayed at 3 o’clock, differentiating it from the smaller model.
  • Design and Mechanical Updates:
    • Slimmer Profile: Case thickness reduced by 1 mm, now at 13 mm.
    • Streamlined Dial: Auxiliary dials have a cleaner design, enhancing readability.
    • Power Reserve Display: Red marking removed; power reserve days are now shown in enlarged number fields.
    • Minute Track Modifications: Outer rail minute track maintained, but removed around the small second.
  • Movement Evolution:
    • Caliber 52011: An updated version of the previous 52010, slightly refined for better performance and efficiency.

The new Portugieser Automatic 42 differs from the old one in some dial details

When comparing old and new from the side, it is noticeable that the case middle part has become thicker despite the lower overall height; furthermore, IWC now uses a box glass at both the top and bottom. The new Portugieser Automatic 42 is available in six versions: white gold with sky blue dial and matching calfskin strap, red gold with black dial and matching alligator strap (26,500 euros), as well as four steel variants: dial in medium blue with steel bracelet (15,000 euros), silver-plated dial with gold-plated hands and numerals or Dune dial on black croco strap, and silver-plated dial with blue hands and numerals with blue croco strap (all 14,000 euros).

Side comparison: The new Portugieser Automatic 42 is one millimeter flatter than the old one
Since 1998, the popular Portugieser Chronograph has had three new dial colors: Dune in combination with a steel case and a black alligator leather strap (9,100 euros), Obsidian black on a red gold case and the same black alligator strap (19,600 euros), and Horizon Blue with a white gold case and light blue calfskin strap. The cases are 41 mm large, 13.1 mm high, and water-resistant up to 30 m. All leather straps are made by the Italian manufacturer Santoni, which also applies to the other Portugieser novelties presented here.

IWC: Portugieser Chronograph in Red Gold with Obsidian Black Dial

The dials are made of brass and are first given a sunburst finish before the color is applied. After that, up to 15 clear lacquer layers are applied: Together with the final polishing, they create a truly remarkable deep shine that contributes a significant part to the fascination of the new Portugiesers. In the end, the totalizers are milled into the lacquer and the brass before finally, numbers and appliques are placed, and the texts are printed. This procedure is the same for all Portugieser novelties. Inside the chronograph ticks the unchanged automatic column-wheel chronograph caliber 69355 with a 46-hour power reserve.

Key Highlights:

  • Dial Construction:
    • Material: Dials are crafted from brass for durability and aesthetic appeal.
    • Sunburst Finish: Each dial receives a sunburst finish as a base before coloring, enhancing visual depth.
    • Lacquer Application: Up to 15 layers of clear lacquer are applied, creating a deep, luminous shine.
    • Final Touches: Totalizers are precision milled into the lacquer and brass; numbers, appliques, and texts are subsequently added.
  • Consistent Craftsmanship:
    • Uniform Process: This meticulous dial creation process is uniformly applied across all new Portugieser models.
  • Movement Specifications:
    • Chronograph Caliber 69355: Features an unchanged automatic column-wheel mechanism.
    • Power Reserve: Offers a 46-hour power reserve, ensuring sustained performance and reliability.

IWC: The Portugieser Tourbillon Hand-Wound Day & Night

IWC has expanded its hand-wound tourbillon with a spherical day-and-night display. A small planet with a bright and a dark half rotates at 9 o’clock, completing one revolution around its own axis every 24 hours. The sphere can be seen from the front as well as from the back through the sapphire glass bottom. The new caliber 81925 differs from the well-known caliber 81905 not only in the additional display but also in the circular decorative cut on the – now gold-plated – plate. The dimensions and the power reserve of 84 hours have remained the same.
The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock consists of 56 individual parts and weighs 0.675 grams. Anchor and escape wheel are made of silicon and coated with a diamond layer, IWC calls this “Diamond Shell”. Thanks to an integrated stop mechanism, the tourbillon can be stopped, which would make more sense if it were equipped with a second display. The 42.4 mm large case is made of Armor Gold, as is the case with the hand-wound tourbillon without a 24-hour display: In this special red gold, the molecular structure has been altered so that the gold, according to IWC, is harder and more resistant than normal 18-carat gold.

Key Highlights:

  • Innovative Display:
    • Spherical Day-and-Night Display: Features a small planet with a light and dark side that rotates at 9 o’clock, completing one full rotation every 24 hours.
    • Visibility: The sphere is visible from both the front and the rear through a sapphire glass case back.
  • Mechanical Enhancements:
    • New Caliber 81925: Upgrades from the previous 81905 with additional features and a decorative circular cut on the now gold-plated plate.
    • Consistent Specifications: Maintains the same dimensions and an impressive 84-hour power reserve.
  • Tourbillon Details:
    • Complex Construction: The flying minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock is composed of 56 parts, weighing 0.675 grams.
    • Advanced Materials: Utilizes silicon for the anchor and escape wheel, enhanced with a diamond layer called “Diamond Shell” for increased durability.
    • Functional Innovation: Includes an integrated stop mechanism, allowing the tourbillon to be stopped, ideally paired with a second display.
  • Case Material:
    • Armor Gold Composition: The 42.4 mm case is made from a specially treated red gold known as Armor Gold, which has an altered molecular structure to be harder and more resistant than traditional 18-carat gold.

IWC Portugieser Perpetual Calendar 44

The new perpetual calendar differs from the previous one firstly in its newly designed 44-millimeter case with a narrower middle part and two box glasses on the top and bottom, which, however, mean that the total height of 14.9 mm remains unchanged. Secondly, IWC again uses the double moon phase for the northern and southern hemispheres. Accordingly, the latest generation of the automatic caliber 52616; the power reserve of 7 days is the same as in the previous caliber 52611. The previously used red gold case is replaced by a shell made of Armor Gold (see above): This harder red gold combines IWC once with a silver-plated dial and once with an obsidian black dial. The white gold models are available in Horizon Blue with a matching calfskin strap and in Dune with a black croco strap..

Key Highlights

  • Redesigned Case:
    • Case Dimensions: Features a newly designed 44-millimeter case with a narrower middle part.
    • Glass Elements: Incorporates two box glasses on the top and bottom, maintaining the total height at 14.9 mm.
  • Enhanced Dial Features:
    • Double Moon Phase: Continues to use the double moon phase for the northern and southern hemispheres, enhancing its utility and visual appeal.
  • Movement and Power Reserve:
    • Caliber 52616: This latest generation automatic movement maintains a 7-day power reserve, consistent with the previous caliber 52611.
  • Case and Dial Variants:
    • Material Upgrade: The previous red gold case is replaced with Armor Gold, known for its enhanced hardness and resistance.
    • Dial Options: Available with a silver-plated dial or an obsidian black dial, both paired with a black crocodile strap, priced at 49,000 euros.
    • White Gold Models: Offered in Horizon Blue with a matching calfskin strap and in Dune with a black crocodile strap, priced at 50,000 euros.

IWC: Portugieser Eternal Calendar

The highlight at the end: The sensation among the IWC novelties 2024 is the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. Unlike the normal perpetual calendar (perpetual calendar), it is a secular eternal calendar. It takes into account the peculiarity of the Gregorian calendar, according to which not really every four years is a leap year. The exceptions are the smooth century years, but only those that are not divisible by 400 without remainder. Thus, while 2000 was a leap year, 2100, 2200, and 2300 will not be. A regular perpetual calendar must therefore be corrected at the latest on March 1, 2100 – a date that is slowly but surely approaching. The new Eternal Calendar solves this problem by integrating a new additional module based on the automatic movement for the perpetual calendar. This space-saving module, which consists of only eight parts, includes two so-called Maltese wheels with once five, once twenty teeth. The entire mechanism rotates once in 400 years and informs the pusher every 100 years that the leap year is omitted – but only three times in a row since 2400 is again a leap year. After that, the game starts anew, theoretically until the year 3999 (whether 4000 will be a leap year has not yet been officially determined).

IWC: Caliber 52640 of the Portugieser Eternal Calendar with 400-Year Wheel

If the year 2100 is already too far away for you, you will be transported to entirely different time dimensions when it comes to the new high-precision moon phase: This is supposed to run so precisely according to calculations by IWC that it will only deviate by one day from the real moon orbit after a whopping 45 million years. For comparison: Already a deviation by 122 years is considered today in the watchmaking industry as a precision moon phase, not to mention the 5775 years that IWC has calculated for its 2003 introduced perpetual calendar.
No wonder that IWC installs the automatic caliber 52640 with seven days power reserve fittingly in a 44.4 mm large platinum case. Thanks to the space-saving calendar module, the watch is only 0.1 mm higher than the perpetual calendar at 15 mm. The dial, like the cover glass and the display back, is made of sapphire glass. The up to 50 m waterproof Eternal Calendar is worn on a black alligator leather strap from Santoni.

Key Highlights

  • Advanced Calendar Mechanics:
    • Secular Eternal Calendar: Goes beyond the typical perpetual calendar by addressing the unique quirks of the Gregorian calendar, ensuring accuracy without manual correction until the year 2100.
    • Century Year Adjustment: Correctly omits leap years for century years not divisible by 400, such as 2100, 2200, and 2300, unlike a regular perpetual calendar.
    • Innovative Mechanism: Features a new module with two Maltese wheels, rotating once every 400 years and informing the watch every 100 years to skip the leap year three times sequentially, until the year 2400, which is a leap year.
  • High-Precision Moon Phase:
    • Astounding Accuracy: Engineered to deviate only one day from the actual moon orbit every 45 million years, setting a new standard for precision in moon phase technology.
  • Technical Specifications:
    • Caliber 52640: Equipped with this robust movement, featuring a 7-day power reserve and housed in a 44.4 mm platinum case.
    • Slight Increase in Case Height: Despite the complex internal module, the case height is minimally increased by only 0.1 mm to 15 mm.
    • Sapphire Glass Components: Both the dial and the display back are crafted from sapphire glass, enhancing visibility and durability.
    • Water Resistance: Up to 50 meters, complemented by a luxurious black alligator leather strap from Santoni.

These highlights illustrate the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar’s exceptional blend of traditional watchmaking artistry with groundbreaking technical advancements, making it a monumental piece in the luxury watch industry.

Lots of glass and therefore a lot for the eye: the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar on the wrist

In Conclusion: A Fusion of Tradition and Modernity

IWC’s 2024 Portugieser collection truly redefines luxury timekeeping, combining IWC’s rich heritage with cutting-edge technology and stunning aesthetics. Each model resonates with the sophistication expected of a leading name in luxury watches, promising to enchant collectors and new admirers alike.

Stay tuned for more updates as I continue to explore the wonders of Watches and Wonders Geneva. Until then, keep celebrating the art of timekeeping that continues to push the boundaries of imagination and craftsmanship!.

Official Website of IWC Schaffhausen Watches for more Info: www.iwc.com

In wonderful cooperation with IWC Schaffhausen Watches